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From the July 2008 Sun Magazine interview with Wendell Berry:

Interviewer: Your emphasis is on local economies, not on organic farming. Why?

Berry: "Organic" has become a label, as it was destined to be. It's a completely worthless word now. It has been perverted to suit the needs of industrial agriculture.

Interviewer: Many people buy organic because it's healthy.

Berry: That's true, but in a local food economy, consumers could exert a certain pressure on producers, and rather than push for convenience or even cheapness, informed consumers would apply pressure on behalf of health, sustainability, and security. So the natural tendency in a local food economy would be toward healthfulness.